Where do you go for a power breakfast in New York City? The obvious answer, for years, was apparently the Loews Regency (so I read). But they closed for renovation, so New York’s wheelers-and-dealers are apparently adrift. This, of course, means there is a free-for-all among the restaurateurs who charge too much for eggs. The Lambs Club gets a fair amount of discussion, but if a recent visit is at all typical, the Lambs Club’s power breakfast needs a backup generator.
A history lesson: The Lambs is one of New York’s private social clubs; the club’s members are typically connected to the arts, theater, etc. The club used to be located on West 44th Street but then moved. A hotel took over the space and named its restaurant “The Lambs Club”, though it has no relation to the social club of the same name. It does, however, have quite the decorated kitchen staff; Chef Geoffrey Zakarian is an Iron Chef contender and Executive Chef Eric Haugen, just 27 years old, is one of Zagat’s “30 Under 30“.
I often pass by The Lambs Club and since I was early for work one day I thought I’d stop in and see what movers and shakers I might see inside. The menu is pretty inventive, mixing traditional expensive-breakfast fare (Eggs Benedict) with more eclectic offerings (Huevos Rancheros).
I went with a pretty standard breakfast: omelette, potatoes, toast, and coffee. The particular omelette I ordered is not on the PDF menu I’ve included below, but a similar option is. I ordered the omelette with broccoli, red peppers, and cheddar cheese. The version linked below is made with mushrooms and spinach. But it seems safe to say that some version of an omelette like this is a fixture on the menu. (I got mine with egg whites.)
The omelette itself was great. As you can probably tell from the pictures, it was presented as a small-dome, almost an igloo of perfectly-white eggs. There wasn’t a blemish on it–it was cooked perfectly evenly throughout. The eggs were light and fluffy and revealed a vibrant and colorful mixture of greens, reds, and yellows. There was enough cheese to give the omelette some edge but not so much that you were scooping a fluorescent orange goop off of your plate (as happened to me recently at a diner that shall remain nameless).
I don’t know how, in terms of technique, eggs so smooth and velvety are prepared, but I was a fan. The grilled bread on the side was pretty good, though I thought the potatoes were a little too oily. The coffee, though was exceptionally good. In retrospect I wish I had asked what it was so I could try to track it down on the outside.
All in all this was a great breakfast. Was it worth what I paid ($30+)? Well, not really. On the other hand there is a gulf in the sit-down-breakfast world between diner fare and high-end. So maybe the price is justifiable because that’s just what you have to pay if you want anything other than the usual diner selections in midtown. That’s fine.
What really got me about this restaurant, though, was that it was basically deserted when I got there (around 8:30 am on a weekday). Is that not prime power-breakfasting time? There were two other people there when I arrived; they soon left and two others arrived. That was it–never more than three people there the whole time. This is a power breakfast scene? Not only did I see anyone famous; I hardly saw anyone at all.
Since this is a food blog, I will evaluate the breakfast on the merits and say it was quite good. But if you’re looking for the “scene”, you may want to look elsewhere.